Immersed in folklore, Naka Cave in Thailand cradles extraordinary rock formations that weave a poignant tale.
Phu Langka National Park
Nestled in the northeastern reaches of Thailand, Phu Langka National Park unfolds across an expanse exceeding 50,000 square kilometers, cradling a realm of thriving wildlife, verdant evergreen canopies, and majestic mountains. Cascading waterfalls embellish the landscape, gracing meandering rivers, while a myriad of enchanting hiking trails beckon explorers into the heart of luxuriant foliage.
Among its treasures lies the enigmatic Naka Cave, also known as the Nāga Cave. Regrettably, this captivating cavern remains beyond public reach for now. A combination of prevailing COVID-related restrictions and the blight of vandalism has cast a temporary veil over its splendor. Nonetheless, the cave weaves a captivating narrative, and should circumstances metamorphose, a pilgrimage to its depths would undoubtedly be a venture of profound allure.
The legend of the Naka Cave
The Naka Cave is unusual in its geology. The rocks have formed to resemble a coiled snake with overlapping scales, and it is edged with a rock shaped like a python’s head. In addition, the cave’s interior walls are coated with minerals that gleam, giving the appearance of a white underbelly. There is an unsettling rock formation within that looks like the petrified teeth of a snake-like creature.
Serpents feature heavily in Buddhist lore and are revered as water guardians who dwell deep within the caves. A ‘nāga’ is a creature that resides in the nether world. According to legend, it is half-human, half-snake, but can shift to human form and walk among us. The most common narrative is that a nāga princess fell in love with a human prince, with devastating consequences for them and their families.
The Story Behind the Legend
The story takes place centuries ago, on the banks of Khong Long Lake, situated in the mysterious Kingdom of Rappar Nakhon.
Rappar Nakhon was home to Prince Fahoong, a much-loved royal who was as handsome and kind as he was rich. But, while he was the subject of many swooning crushes, he could not find true love.
The prince took long walks along the shore of Khong Long Lake. One day, while out for his walk, he heard the most beautiful singing. It was a song he had never heard before, soft and sweet yet woven with sadness. Without even laying eyes on the singer, he knew that he was in love. He followed the sweet sound, searching everywhere. But just as he thought he’d found the source, it suddenly stopped. The girl was nowhere to be seen.
Deflated and discouraged, he began to make his way home when he suddenly heard soft crying. He was overjoyed, as he was sure he had tracked down his love at last. He caught sight of movement within the trees – a cape of crimson and emerald, whipping around. But when he got to the tree, no one was there. Instead, at the foot of the tree, there lay a snakeskin, freshly shed. It was unlike any snakeskin he had seen before; one half was scarlet, and the other sparkling green.
Fahoong had unknowingly encountered a nāgi, a serpent that could take human form. The nāgi was named Nakkarintrani, and she had seen him too. Nakkarintrani was as taken with Fahoong as he was with her, though they were still yet to meet.
The prince returned home and told his parents his tale of woe. The gods forbade marriage between humans and nāgis. Fortunately, the prince’s parents and Lord Naka, Nakkarintrani’s father, saw that their children were deeply in love. They decided to let a wedding take place on the condition that no one could ever learn Nakkarintrani’s true identity.
The couple married in a beautiful ceremony, celebrated by all who lived in the kingdom. They spent several years in wedded bliss, but could not conceive a child. With no heir to the throne, people began to whisper, not knowing the truth. A human and a nāgi could never bear a child.
One day, Nakkarintrani became very ill. Weakened with fever, she was unable to maintain her human form. She tried to remain in her chambers but was discovered by a servant, who raised the alarm. Her cover was blown.
Lord Naka was furious and sent his army to storm the city, burning it to the ground and killing most who lived within. Legend says that the prince and princess escaped and dwelled within the caves until grief overwhelmed them. They died embracing each other, deeply in love. Those that survived that terrible night named the cave in their honor.
Lord Naka severely punished Fahoong’s father, King Ue-Lee. He was sentenced to spend eternity set in stone, in the form of a giant serpent—a warning to all that humans and nāgi could never coexist.
Visiting Phu Langka National Park
Phu Langka is on the far north-eastern border of Thailand. However, it is close to the Laos border, so it is easily accessible from that side. Phu Langka is a 10-hour drive from Bangkok, and there are several bus, taxi, and train services available. You can also fly from Bangkok to Chiang Rai, about two hours drive from the park.
There are various places to stay in the area, catering for all budgets. Hugphaeng Garden and Thai Guest House are basic yet comfortable options offering great value for money. Both are within five miles of the park. If you prefer more luxurious accommodation, you will need to stay a little further out. If resort-style comfort is what you are looking for, Rico Resort Chiang Kham and Chiangkham Grand Villa are elegant choices.